Recalled Eddie Bauer Pack N Play's Also furious with the company advice needed please?

Just wanted to share this:


http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/prerel/prhtm鈥?/a>


.











So my husband got the email that my sons Eddie Bauer Sooth and Sway Pack and Play was recalled. There is a bassinett that goes with this pack and play which is the problem. Babies are rolling onto the side of the pack and play and almost suffocating against the sides of the pack and play. So my husband calls. They say that we need to cut out the serial number on the bottom of the pack and play ( which will destroy the bottom of it ) send it in with a letter saying that we are not going to use the pack and play anymore. Fine no big deal and they will send us a check for how much $40 WTF???????? We payed 150 for the damn thing and all they are giving us is 40. We can't even replace it with a new decent pack and play. They are all around 150. I am not dishing out another 110 for a new pack n play. That thing is brand new. My son is 6 months old!!!!!!!!!!!!!





Now we are stuck do we not use the bassinett or get rid of the whole thing? We can't afford to get another pack n play to be honest.Recalled Eddie Bauer Pack N Play's Also furious with the company advice needed please?
I am not familiar with the exact model, but it sounds like the bassinet part can be removed. (If it is like mine, which is a Graco.)





That is what I would do. You can still have your baby play int the ''park'' part. Just don't let him sleep in it.





Also write the company back explaining how angry you are, threaten to go to a newspaper and expose them for the unresponsible frauds they are. It is THEIR product which is a danger, it is THEIR responsability to replace it. (If you know a lawyer, it might be could to get an idea of what their responsabilities are legally, sounds like they are trying to rip you off...) When my car had parts recalled, I didn't have to dish out a dime to have them changed....Recalled Eddie Bauer Pack N Play's Also furious with the company advice needed please?
Please check the model number on the base if the leg. The hazard states if you use it in the ';rock motion only'; if you do not use it for that purpose then you should be fine. It states it rolls to the side...if u do not use the motion rocker on it.

Report Abuse

There's nothing wrong with the play yard, but like a lot of the bassinet and change table attachments they have been found unsafe.





So you can just use the pack 'n' play.





Isn't the serial number on a removable tag? If it would cause damage to the pack n play (not the bassinet) call them back and ask them to clarify.
At 6 months you don't need the bassinet part anymore so I would just keep the pack and play part of it and call it good.





I haven't returned anything that has been recalled in awhile but I did return an opened toy (no packaging, no receipt, nothing) to toys'r'us a while back when it was recalled and they gave me store credit. You could try to see if you can get store credit.
where did you get it. i work in a store that sells things that get recalled and even if you are past the return policy you can still get your money back i would try going to the store you got it and see if they could help you
give the company a call.... it is my belife that Legaly they HAVE to reimbuse you the FULL amount of purcese on a recalled item... not just pennies on the dollar
Isn't it great? Fisher Price had a pack-n-play recall too and make us destroy the thing, send it back and then wait up to 6 weeks for a check to replace it. Luckily the check actually did cover a replacement. I don't suppose you saved the receipt or it was an item off your registry? If it came from the registry the store should be able to verify the price you paid to Eddie Bauer. If you can't get them to give you a decent price and you don't plan on having anymore children then I would just remove the bassinet and keep the rest. If you plan to use the bassinet on subsequent children and don't want to take the risk then you'll have to spring for a new one.

I want to open a cell phone company in california... any advice on which company to go with???

Wheels has a good concept. Here's a number to someone I know that has been involved in this industry for many many years. Instead of just going with one provider, and selling just that, you should collaborate with all providers and not just limit to cell phones, but go into the entire communications industry. The income in this alone is just incredible. She collaborated with a 15 year old world wide company that Donald Trump has endorsed. They've been featured in several magazines like USA Today, Success, Fortune and Inc 500 rated them the 22nd fastest growing company. They market in Local and Long Distance Telephone services, Internet services, digital phone services, video phone services, VOIP, as well as all the major cellular phone providers like Verizon, T-Mobile, AT%26amp;T, Sprint, Altell, Nextell etc. This is a huge business opportunity for you.


The best person to contact that can go over the companies, answer any questions you may have and point you out into the right direction. An incredible person that's helped many business owners in this industry.


Tiffany's address is kaiden4@aol.com





Good Luck!I want to open a cell phone company in california... any advice on which company to go with???
The services the company offers are local and long distance calling, Internet, Digital, Voip with video phones, Satellite TV and cell phone services with all the major cell phone providers. Now everybody knows plenty of other people who use these services in their homes every day, and this opportunity allows you to save people money on these services, but at the same time it allows you to earn a percentage of the monthly billing of all the people, who are saving money on the services you recommended, now you have created a residual based income, you get paid every month for as long as the customer continues to use the service. Contact me if interested.


WheelsI want to open a cell phone company in california... any advice on which company to go with???
Verizon

Live in Memphis area or suburbs and want advice on security companies?

If you live in Memphis or in the suburbs of the area, feel free to ask me about the differences in security systems and companies and pricing. Sometimes, you can get systems for free. I will tell you the pros and the cons of the big and small companies and let you decide. Email me if you decide not to post on here.Live in Memphis area or suburbs and want advice on security companies?
I sure will and I sure do! best answer?

I'm being sued by my credit card company... advice?

I'm being sued by Capital One as a result of a credit card I let go into default. A card I got when I was 18, certainly not fit to manage my finances, apparently. I guess Obama really had something with that 21+ to get a credit card thing, huh?





Anyways, I have done some research online, but none of the things I have read really clarify what to do, and many aren't similar enough to my story. So here goes... I am bowing my head down and putting my tail between my legs, to tell you all the story of my irresponsibility :-/ ... thanks in advance for any help!!!





The card was originally a $300 limit. At first I maintained payments and my limit was raised to $500. Eventually I maxed out the card, and between over limit fees and lack of resources, I let the card fall way behind. It has been in default since Feb 08. I called the CC company last summer to try to work out arrangements. I explained that I was a poor college student, and did not have the money to make a large payment. The only options they gave me were, a: pay $400 to get the card below limit and remain active, or b: pay $700 to settle and close out the card. I explained I didn't have the money to pay at that time, and no resolution was reached. I (dumbass) let it go after that and its been in default since.





Now I am being sued. The explanation shows about $500 of my own charges and $180 in interest. The total balance I owe is around $1700, when court costs, lawyer fees, and over limit fees are factored in.





I DO have a job, but its not so steady. In about 3 weeks I'll be getting a financial aid refund of around $750, and can use some/all to pay on the balance. I also got a letter from a company that says they're a ';mediation firm'; and that they can save me money and help me out. Is a place like that worth a call?





Ok... I'm a writer, so I'm rambling. I've told my sob story, and I hope I get some generous people willing to help. Thank again in advance!I'm being sued by my credit card company... advice?
When you get sued you go to court, and either tell the judge you can make a payment plan ';but at the amount YOU can pay monthly and that you can't afford what the CC company wants monthly';. The judge will set up the payment plan for you. That eliminates the mediator.





However the judge may look at you and determine that at some point in time you ';can'; pay it off and will send it to mediation. A mediator is hired by the court and they set up an appointment for you and you go there and determine the monthly amount you can afford (showing your assets). Otherwise if you all cannot come to a consensus then they could possibly garnish your wages if you are working or when you are working. Garnishment is an embarrassment, and if by chance you get out of a job it will follow you and the new employer might not want to fool around with that and may let you go. So eliminate the garnishment if you can.





If you never make payment the amount can grow and grow until they can put a lien against something you own like a car or house and they will continue with the interest until you try to sell either and they will take their money off the top (of the sale), or they could take it to court and put a lien on your car and then file another document that will force you to sell your car (when you've build up enough equity) and pay them what you owe them.





A refund of financial aid money is supposed to be used for schooling and only schooling. If it's from a loan then it's best to repay that student loan.





Now, you could get a second job and make payments on that credit card balance. If you were a poor person, didn't have much of a career or future, or the ability to have anything in your life I'd suggest that you might want to not pay that bill at all, to let it ride because the statute of limitations on repaying a bill like that may run and they couldn't collect on it....but that's why they're rushing you on paying it, they want to make sure you don't pull that statute of limitations law on them and they know someday you can and will afford to pay them back.I'm being sued by my credit card company... advice?
I would stay far, far, far away from any ';mediation'; firm or other non-attorney who claims to be able to assist you.





I would call the attorney for Capital One and offer $750 to settle. If they accept, write a letter, enclosing the money, and write on the check and in the letter ';payment in full for xxx account';.
If you have the money, try to settle before the matter goes to court. Be advised that attempting a settlement prior to court with the other side's attorney is a VERY tricky thing to do, so be careful. Your best chance of settling is when you have a lump sum to pay the settlement all at once. Be sure to get a written settlement agreement from the PRIOR to making any payments. NEVER accept settlement terms over the phone without a written agreement.





IMPORTANT: Don't make the mistake of cutting a ';good faith'; payment to their attorneys without any sort of written agreement that they'll cease legal action...If you do this they'll simply take your money and sue you anyway.





If you can only pay them a settlement in installments per month then it gets more complicated. The problem is that they will invariably want you to sign away your legal rights for any settlement agreement by signing a document that authorizes an instant judgement. DO NOT sign such an agreement or any agreement that waives your legal rights. NEVER, EVER trust any “advise” they give you, regardless of how “nice” they might seem on the phone. Remember, the are 100% against you best interests. Accepting advise from them on what to do is like Tweety Bird accepting advise from Sylvester the Cat. Also, do not fill out any questionnaires or paperwork requesting personal information for you to sign and mail back to them...They will use these documents against you if you do. Do not admit to owing the debt in writing...even if you do owe it.





If you cannot reach a settlement prior to court, then do this:





Send this debt collector and the court a letter via Certified Mail with Return Receipt (NOT regular mail) stating:





Notice of Intent to Defend





I cannot officially respond to your claim until validation is made for the alleged debt. I am officially requesting validation of your claim, to include (this info will be requested at the court hearing):





- A copy of the original application with my signature for this alleged debt


- How much was this debt purchased for?


- Provide a fully itemized statement for the amount you are asking which clearly details how this amount over the amount that was paid for this debt was calculated, including the interest rate being charged. Confirm that this rate falls within state usury limits





This letter has been mailed via Certified Mail with Return Receipt. Receipt of this letter is being officially time stamped.


--------------------------------------


Fill out the response to the court the best that you can. If you are asked if you Affirm or Deny the claim, mark ';Deny'; and mail that along with the above letter stating that you cannot affirm or deny the claim until the claim has been validated. Also mail this via Certified Mail with Return Receipt


-------------------------------


On the court date: DO NOT be a no-show under any circumstances whatsoever. Not showing up is the worst thing you can possibly do. Even if you are frightened....or you're sick with a 102 degree fever...or if you think that you'd loose, show up anyway! If you don't, the other side will get a default judgement and they will get this on THEIR terms. They will tack on all sorts of add-on fees and the amount of the judgment could end up being two or three times the actual amount of the debt.





IMPORTANT: bring complete documentation of your income and living expenses: Pay stubs and copies of bills. Even if you loose, you can use this to negotiate much more favorable repayment terms. Request the following info from the other side on the court date:





- a copy of the original application with your signature


- a fully itemized statement for the amount they are asking which clearly details how this amount was calculated, including the interest rate being charged - How much was this debt purchased for?


===============================


Lastly....if they take you to court and win a judgement, this will authorize them to freeze your checking accounts....To be safe, this might be a good time to start pulling out any money you have in check/savings accounts and putting the cash in a safe deposit box to keep them from getting your money.
Here's what I would do.





I would answer the summons %26amp; complaint by denying all accusations for lack of information. (You have to do this within the first 30 days.)





I would file requests for discovery seeking a variety of paperwork (e.g., copies of signed application, credit card agreements, credit card slips, etc., names and addresses of individuals at Cap1 who approved loans, credit lines, etc.)





NOW, you have delayed the process by months or even years. Also, you will have increased the costs to Cap1.





Consequently, they will be more inclined to bargain with you or just drop the suit.
1st. make sure you are being sued. is there a file number and court date? it should also say you have so many days to send a written answer to the court and the lawyer. if it does send an answer. sorry to say i cant find out how to write one. but it needsw to be a graduated denial. say i deny the debt is mine. if it is i deny it is a valid debt if it is valid i deny the amount im being sued for is the correct amount. it must be typed, signed,dated and notarized with copies to the court and the lawyer who is suing. after filing that the lawyer cannot get a judgement relying on his sworn affidavit. he will have to produce a live witness to testify about the debt.
Call Capital One and tell them you want to negotiate to settle the account. You would be surprised what they will do for you. If you can give them an exact date that you can send a certain amount of money it will help. They will generally give you an amount of time to send the money in. If you call and try to work it out, they will work with you. Much easier than court and they really are not out any money except the original 500.00.

makeup counter

Retroactive billing by electric company? Advice on auditing/understanding a meter reading?

Background: My average KWH usage is 600-800/month with a gradual increase during the summer. I receive a bill for my August usage, which seems abnormally high (1000 kwh). I notify my REP that I am moving on Sept. 15th, and on Sept. 22nd receive a bill for 1330 KWH for only 18 days of usage (9/02-9/20). (Double what I had used in entire months in the past).





Two days later, I receive four new bills modifying PAST bills: My June usage was retroactively doubled, my July and August usage was increased by barely 3%, and my Sept. usage was REDUCED by over 50%. The resulting balance is exactly, within two cents, what it was before the revisions. After calling the electric company, they tell me the meter was under-reading, and that is why they retroactively billed me. Oncor confirms that this is legal.





MY QUESTIONS:





1. If a meter is misreading, wouldn't the amount it is misreading by be consistent? As opposed to underreading by half one month and overreading by half the next?





2. Is it even possible to go back and decide what the correct usage *should have been* in a past month? If the meter just gives one reading, the current one, how can they tell that the meter under-read by 50% in June and 3% in July?





3. What is the average KWH usage for someone in a 600 sq. ft one bedroom whose only electricity uses are central air, fridge, one computer, and a few lights? (No TV, dishwasher, washer or dryer; gas heating and stove).





4. Have you ever heard of electric company scams where the meter-reading folk make up arbitrary readings based on past years'/neighbors usage? Do you think it's plausible that they planned for my Sept. usage to be high, and had to refund the amount after I told them I was leaving halfway through? And instead of refunding me, chose to distribute the amount among past bills, citing ';meter malfunction?';





5. To whom should I direct my complaint, my retail electric provider or Oncor, who does the actual readings?





6. If I ask them to ';prove it';, what am I essentially asking for? What do I need to ask for in order to verify their claims?





And lastly, yes, I do plan on taking my own meter readings every month in the future. Thanks in advance for your answers, if you have insight into even one of these questions I would greatly appreciate it. I live in near-downtown Dallas if that matters.Retroactive billing by electric company? Advice on auditing/understanding a meter reading?
I'll try and keep it simple for you. Anytime a utility co. bills for past usage on a meter they are claiming to be operating inaccurately is guess work.


A meter can be tested by proper testing equipment. They DO NOT have the ability to find a meter operating 50% slow one month then 3% slow another month. PURE GUESS WORK. A meter is required to operate within 2% of 100% accurate. When guessing a customers past unmetered usage we're trying to guess how much money to steal from the customer.


All meter testing has documentation. They have to prove their claim. They may have authority given to them from your state power board/commission but the commission would also require them to prove it with documentation. A meter operates consistently, even at 50% slow. If the meter is functioning erratically they cannot arbitrarily guess a KWH value to bill you. No commission will stand for this billing behavior. Report them if this is the case.


Since the billing department is your contact . They are the people to deal with. You don't need to prove you didn't use the electricity. They need to prove you used it with meter readings. Not guess work. They cannot use past customer useage for your address to prove consumption. That's an apples to oranges comparison.


Insist they have a meter technicians ';meter test report'; for them to prove their case. They must provide it. Make billing contact the metering department(They work for you.)


Good luck

Please can some one advice me which delivery company or courier Zavvi use

All I can suggest is email them and ask the who they use.

Live in Memphis and you want advice about security companies?

If you live in Memphis or in the suburbs of the area, feel free to ask me about the differences in security systems and companies and pricing. Sometimes, you can get systems for free. I will tell you the pros and the cons of the big and small companies and let you decide. Email me if you decide not to post on here.Live in Memphis and you want advice about security companies?
this is not a question